The fall walleye bite can be the hottest of the year. Here’s what you need to know about tactics, tackle and bait

For late-fall walleye, head for deep water next to hard structure

LATE FALL

As fall progresses and the water temperature drops into the 8°C to 12°C range, the walleye are forced to migrate yet again. That’s because the baitfish move out of the shallower weeds and start to bunch up in balls, suspended over deep water. The walleye then follow and suspend with the minnows, or slightly under them, putting an end to the hot bite near the shallow weedbeds. They’ll typically stay in these locations until the lake turns over, then becomes covered in ice.

The baitfish—and walleye—won’t randomly suspend over any deep water, however. Typically, they’ll head for deep areas adjacent to underwater structure with a rocky bottom, or transitional areas between shallow and deep water. Common spots include underwater points, rock piles and ledges on the edges of deep drop-offs. While the walleye will spend much of the day suspended at mid-water depths targeting the baitfish, they sometimes slide over onto the adjacent structure and feed there, too.

Over the years, I’ve also noticed that if the walleye are suspended at a certain depth in open water, they’ll often be found at a similar depth while relating to structure. I also find they’re more inclined to be on the structure later in the day. When you get a late-season day that’s sunny, calm and warm, however, they’ll often be found around the structure all day long.

TACTICS

It’s imperative to use electronics to comb potential walleye-fishing areas before wetting a line. It takes patience, but you need to travel slowly over promising areas to let the electronics work at full capacity to give you accurate findings. Most sonar units work best at speeds slower than two miles per hour, although I like to scope out areas at half that speed.

To remain stealthy while scouting, I prefer to scan while navigating with my bow-mounted electric trolling motor. I also methodically search promising areas using a grid pattern, or by moving from deeper to shallower water. If I don’t find fish, I move to another area and repeat the search process.

While combing deep-water areas, don’t just look for large arches depicting suspended walleye. Also keep an eye out for balls of baitfish—if there are giant masses of bait, the walleye won’t be far away. Then when I find a bait ball using the sonar mode on my electronics, I switch the view to the down-imaging mode. That way, it’s possible to see exactly what’s happening with the arches or balls. The ultimate goal is to see larger fish mixed right in with the forage, indicating the walleye are on a feeding frenzy.

BAIT & TACKLE

Once I locate some walleye, I hold my boat’s position over top of them using the Spot-Lock feature on my trolling motor, then vertically jig. I typically use the same lures I’ll jig a few weeks later when the lake is covered with ice. That includes horizontal jigging minnows, jigging spoons and lipless crankbaits. Instead of finesse-fishing the lures as I would during the hardwater season, however, I’ll jig them aggressively to capitalize on the likewise aggressive late-fall walleye.

Horizontal jigging minnows such as the Clam Tikka Mino and Rapala Jigging Rap drop in a spiral pattern similar to an injured minnow, then dart like escaping baitfish when lifted upward. I like to rip them up two or three feet, then let them fall. Often, a walleye will strike on the drop, so be ready to set the hook on each lift.

Jigging spoons, such as the PK Flutter Fish and the Jig-A-Whopper Hawger Spoon from HT Enterprises, are another option for both suspended fish and fish on structure. These lures flash and vibrate as they drop erratically, so by lifting and dropping them, you can imitate an injured minnow. It’s also a good idea to periodically let the lure stop, since walleye will often strike on the pause. Jigging spoons come in both flat and bent styles; the flat ones tend to drop faster, while the bent lures give off more flash and vibration. The fish will tell you which style they prefer on any given day.

Lipless crankbaits, especially those with built-in rattles, such as the Rapala Rippin’ Rap and PK Ridge Rattl’r, also work very well in late autumn. When lifted, they rattle and buzz, while also giving off a lot of flash. Then as they drop, they wobble downwards like a wounded baitfish. I like to zip them up about 18 inches, let them drop and, once bottomed out, jiggle them for a few seconds before ripping them upwards again. You can expect a hit at any point, so make sure you stay in contact with the lure at all times.

Saskatchewan’s Mike Hungle enjoys fishing for walleye throughout all four seasons.

BONUS TIP: PREPARING FOR FALL CHALLENGES

Late-season walleye action can be hot and heavy, but it often comes with a price. On even the warmest late-fall days, the air temperature can be cold, especially if there is a breeze over the water or you’re travelling at high speeds between fishing locations. To stay warm and dry, dress for the occasion, complete with insulated pants, a jacket and a hoodie. Waterproof gloves and a toque are also a good idea. One of the most overlooked pieces of autumn fishing apparel is proper footwear. While runners are great on dry land, they don’t cut it during fall fishing, even if you’re in a boat with a raised floor. Wear insulated boots instead. That way, you can concentrate on the fishing—not on miserably cold feet.

Late in the season, you will also find that the docks at many boat launches have already been pulled ashore. That doesn’t mean you can’t use the launch; you just have to adapt a little. Have one angler remain in the boat to drive it off the trailer (and back on later), then remain close to shore while the other angler parks the tow vehicle. That person then just has to jump into the boat, a task made easier with waders or a small plastic step stool.

Finally, remember to drain your boat engine, livewells, pumps, drains and bilges after a day on the water. Otherwise, if the water freezes it will expand and potentially damage the expensive components. Once your boat is on the trailer, raise and lower the outboard a few times to get all the water out. At the same time, don’t forget to also remove the boat plug and empty the livewells.