Bowhunting tip: How to keep your 3D targets in shooting form for years to come

With my back muscles tensed, I settled my 50-yard pin on the kill zone and sent an arrow on its way—to my 3D target, that is. I’ve had this particular target for more than five years now, and it’s a far cry from the comparatively brittle and somewhat short-lived first target I bought three decades ago. I couldn’t even guess how many shots it has absorbed over the years; it just keeps taking arrow after arrow.

While the technology has certainly come a long way, each and every 3D target still requires proper care. Here’s how to get the most value out of your targets for as long as possible.

QUALITY & DURABILITY

Every bowhunter can benefit from practising on 3D targets. There’s simply no better way to simulate field-like conditions, but there is always a cost. The most economical option is to get a membership at a local outdoor or indoor 3D-shooting range. Most clubs have full courses that members can work their way through. Alternatively, you can buy your own 3D targets and find a safe place to practise.

Prices vary depending on the brand, size and material density, which inevitably translates into a longer-lasting target. Some makes and models are more durable than others, and this comes down to how they’re made. Most of today’s reputable 3D targets are constructed of self-healing, UV-protected, high-density moulded foam. With field tips, they can usually withstand thousands of arrows. Broadheads, on the other hand, are a different story, as they’ll chew up any target much faster.

Most archery clubs tend to invest in higher-quality 3D targets. For this reason, you’ll see a lot of Rinehart, GlenDel and Delta McKenzie targets on most ranges. They’re a bit more expensive, but they can usually take a lot more arrows before needing repair. For example, their lifelike deer targets—available in a variety of stances—can run you anywhere from $500 to $900. Smaller, lighter-grade targets can cost less, but you get what you pay for.

Whatever model you choose, keep in mind that 3D targets take a beating. No matter how good they are, they can only take so many arrows. And since they’re often out in the sun all day long, they are punished by more than their share of damaging UV rays.

MAINTENANCE & REPAIR

One of the best ways to help add years to the lifespan of your targets is to either store them in a shed or garage when they’re not in use, or cover them up to protect them from the sun, even during winter. Otherwise, the harsh UV rays will slowly cause the finish—and the foam itself—to break down.

What causes the most damage to 3D targets, of course, is the repeated impact from arrows. Made to accept field points (not broadheads, usually), the high-density foam is only so tough. I have one 3D deer target that I sacrifice for practice with blades, for example, and its kill zone gets destroyed a lot faster. Even if you’re only shooting field points, though, a 3D target will eventually get shot out and require either a new kill-zone insert or a DIY repair job.

The nice thing is, target makers such as Rinehart, GlenDel and Delta McKenzie sell replacement kill-zone inserts at a fraction of the cost of an entirely new target. Inserts for smaller 3D targets cost less, but expect to spend at least a couple of hundred dollars to replace the core on a deer-sized target.

If you’re willing to invest a bit of time, you can go the DIY route instead at a fraction of the cost. That entails cleaning out the loose and damaged pieces, then filling in the cavity with high-density expandable foam, such as Loctite Tite Foam Big Gaps. At $79 for a 12-ounce cannister, this offers a relatively inexpensive fix. Depending on the size of the damaged area, one cannister can often repair more than one target.

After filling the gaps—remember, the foam expands—allow it to cure for 24 hours. Then shave off the excess and apply spray paint to match the target. It’s as simple as that before you can get back to what’s most important—practising your shot.